The D3200 is a superior entry level DSLR. This can be seen on the whole very easy operation, the plastic case (which also has advantages: low price, compact and lightweight with approx 400-450g, almost half a kilo), the significantly less available directly programmable buttons and extra displays, as well as the not present in the case image stabilizer, which you can buy only with more expensive VR lenses. But considering the price perfectly okay and sufficient.
Up to ISO 800 the image quality is good to very good (where noise is fine visible on the screen starting at ISO400, I measure the performance but the price. Compared to APS-C cameras without low-pass filter (higher Nikon or Fuji X-Trans sensor with 16MP ) but twice as bad), from about ISO1250 it starts, visible to noise and therefore I choose a maximum ISO1600 standard as ISO AUTO Max limit. But it is a fine noise, which does not interfere in the private sphere, because you can always easily even to ISO3200 Print on A2. For professionals, the camera is really just a second camera or a fair-weather camera as cheap, robust, accurate, compatible and compact.
The 18-55er kit lens reproduces well, is therefore a typical bread and butter lens (faint) lame and provides too little focus. However, the moderate zoom range is the edge sharpness beneficial, since less light is refracted.
When 18-105er kit, which works pleasantly smooth in optical zoom, you get actually the ideal moderate travel zoom lens for the D3200 as a fixed focal length is not much bringing in a noisy processor, especially since the beauty of a focal length lies in the fact that it reflects not only brighter and completely sharp edges, it is about extreme wide angle so long (the typical normal focal length is ideal), but above all the fact that it is compact and lightweight. And that she will never be with a DSLR. Here I would give a system camera with high brightness fixed focal length prevail, because then equal to a backup camera with has that does not eat a lot of space and weight and is ready to use, because you do not have to change lenses and especially at a fixed focal length of the manufacturer all has perfectly matched to the sensor.
But I have approximately 1 month the 18-105er lens, replaced by its successor, the 18-140er F3.5-5.6 because I was optically not completely satisfied with 5x (too little) and the 18-140er same light intensity, but at the same focal length as the 18-105er, a slightly higher light intensity has taken for the D3200 camera urgently, so that we can mitigate the noise under ISO1600 and the evening is not especially need to buy a prime lens, because you and with monopod max 2.5x optical zoom in the evening or at night still gets with VR to 0.5s exposure time blur-free images, no not to be mobile (tripod, too lame, large, heavy). Clear, quick street scenes you can forget then, but you can then yes stay only 28mm F3.5 VR, yet make beautiful pictures. The 18-105mm lens is yet to start with the best solution, because the picture quality is like when 18-55er, but you have approximately 5.5x optical zoom and the lens is especially cheap and good. However, the 18-140mm VR lens offers a practical with which I am satisfied as always plan finally 7.8x optical zoom, as compact (only about 0.5-1cm longer than 18-105er and fairly equal weight by approximately 0.5kg and good edge sharpness for easy travel zoom) with affordable price (of course only used or returns, new or re-priced only 18-105er, if at all).
I always go a compromise that is statistically the day, much more than the focal length needs as at night, is where usually only required to 3.5x optical in strong light.
Thus I have the combination D3200 + Nikon 18-140mm VR + Tamron 70-300. So then it covers the range of focal lengths from 18-450mm, which approximately corresponds to a 16x optical zoom range and is sufficient for the average consumer. The Tamron 70-300mm I even selected without image stabilization, easy so as extreme telephoto focal lengths of animals, airplanes or architecture cuttings are not as important as people, street scenes and normal focal length, ie portrait, faces, human interaction, emotion, speed, action and therefore needs to be spent more for better picture quality and you urgently need an image stabilizer, as it quickly is even a slight cloudiness and about 3x optical zoom with F4.5 + and ISO 800+, if it has to be fast enough.
The rest is as usual with a DSLR, also here because of the price and the determination to higher classes, 11 auto focus points, but the very safe and fast focusing. And that was one of the main reasons why I have again changed from system cameras for DSLR fraction. Here you have not only contrast autofocus, but also phase autofocus, which particularly in low light you realize the same, but also the day when the sun shines, since the autofocus point just sits quickly and accurately. No pumps, no missed situation. Significant advantage, together with optical viewfinder for better grip and image evaluation for DSLR unlike system camera. The Nikon typical good and cheap bread & butter lenses 18-55-105-140 and the very favorable light strong, sharp imaging 35mm / 50mm F1.7 fixed focal length lenses are unique selling point at Nikon. Add to this the access to third-party such as Sigma and Tamron. Both good reason very popular as affordable. But at Tamron and Sigma, there are also a lot of black sheep among the lenses, which can not really argue with the original objectives of Nikon. I had, for example, the "soup", excuse, travel 18-200mm zoom, with image stabilization from Sigma, which was everywhere evaluated positively, had to test for about 2 weeks and I was glad when I sold the thing again because the Pictures were all flat (that's the compromise of comfort, take the very many people, but I do not) and that was not because of a camera setting, but definitely on the lens. I would recommend to replace the 18-105 or 18-140 immediately Nikon VR because the Tamron 18-200er only be beneficial if you do not have image stabilization. And even then they have no chance against the original objectives, as long as there are no high-priced specialty lenses that offer little push, but good high speed, remunerated, calculated, are processed, it cost but as much as a used scooter ...
Since I was the autofocus, I would also like it here again. The Evaluative metering with 11 focus points on automatic mode or P lends itself to little time and in good light conditions for most situations. But even in mundane situations such as a plane close to the edge of the screen or a close, next to standing tree have led to Committee-goods, because although the camera screen closer Zoom everything was sharp, but then the nasty surprise on the screen followed by the PC: the wrong area was focused, although about 3 of 5 focus areas were targeted in the middle and only 2 little further down. You might be thinking "great, everything sharp as I wanted to," but denkste - The Planters forward sharply, the house hintendran around the center mud. That's the big advantage of larger sensors, but also at the same time the biggest drawback. Beginners are here have to practice a little, as you expect from small sensors to have a large depth of field and thus the entire image is always sharp. For DSLR APS-C or DX or MFT sensors (begins approximately from 1 "sensors = RX100 / Samsung Mini) Autofocus is not always what you expect from him. So here again is the classic spot measurement on the bottom left quickly to reach Info-Button the ideal choice, since what is important, mostly located in the center. And who very challenging photos such as on a race track in a curve passing sports car sharp, but would like to have the background out of focus, the offers the dynamic autofocus that follows the target by half by pressing on. Thus, approaching objects are no longer a problem.
For a DSLR like the D3200 you but absolutely still requires a small, fast Jack Pocket Camera with Zoom something that provides usable images up to 10MP. Here precious Compact offer ideal as they rush less than compact Traveller cams and much better lenses (eg RX100, LF1, XZ-2, P330, S110, S95, EX2F all to F2.0 maximum focal length good image quality, fast, compact, light, sharp, manually adjustable). Small precious compacts are very well where DSLR are not allowed or too impractical at concerts, bike tours, climbing tours, walking tours, interiors, people, street scenes, Food and macro.
Is it but only in a certain place, then of course you want the best picture quality.
What quite often rather annoys me when you operate the D3200, is that I should just like to examine my shot images and thus directly after shot in the preview on + or - will go view. Here, the arrangement of the buttons is disadvantageous because I always accidentally goodbye from the photo, because I take + or - in the menu the country, since the button is located above = important. + And - must be served as the menu but often what is not a good user interface is thus, since the play button located at the top and it is expected that there are also the corresponding buttons at the play button. For a menu setting procedure is followed consciously and thus has time. At night particularly important, since one does not see here where you plan pushes and you just need then the Live View.
What's great with the Nikon lenses that can be accessed by sliding switch on the lens directly to VR and manual / automatic focus. This is awesome, because fast and foolproof. Who wants the evening around doktorn at night skyline of a metropolis in the menu to set to manual focus, as automatic does not apply?
Conclusion: If you buy the body and to the best 18-105er or equal to the kit from the outset, which is obtained an average DSLR workhorse for many years, which is sufficient for most situations. It is precisely this 5-7x optical zoom range you never gets in system cameras and when, then. Only with luxurious extra prices, which may be obtained D3200 18-105 VR + & Noble Compact together About ISO1600 I would only go if the image distract many details and the best quality I'd go up to ISO400 of 12-20MP day. The default setting of the camera is too soft, the noise is suppressed, but at the expense of image detail. Here you go to Menu> Picture Control> Standard and then right cursor key to then adjust the following settings (details well, not too much noise, color nor realistic with a slight tendency to warm stronger colors (rich green leaves and beautiful red and warm sun color ), no flooding in the dark and thus conceal image errors):
Sharpness from 0 to +2 (second stage to the right)
Contrast from 0 to +1 (first stage to the right)
Brightness left + -0
Saturation +2 (second stage right)
Hue + -0
ISO Auto Max put at 1,600.
Nikon rushes compared to Canon a lot more, but you get sharper images and more image detail. Everybody has to decide for himself. I leave dear image details and thanks to the 24MP can be down scaled to 12-16MP and then lands in the D3100 middle class, but with sharper, plastic, organic photos at least a day.
The 24MP is a publicity stunt and frankly they meet in reality about 13 / 14MP. The best compromise is about 16MP in ISO 1000+ and 20MP with ISO100-400 and 8-13MP at ISO 1600+. Most photographs are made but the day and thus can achieve good sharp photos by slight scaling down. But without low-pass filter would rock the D3200. Then you could take pictures with 20MP still good between ISO 1600 and 3200. Yes, there is Nikon's no low-pass filter, which are then but in Semipro area where I will end up probably next year or in 2 years. Without low-pass filter one saves a few screens and the noise and the accuracy to take. Full frame of course is the maximum affordable, but for the average consumer is not really affordable, especially if you have not even good eye to notice the difference.
I have as of January / February 2015 paid for the D3200 with 18-140er lens total of 565 euros, but only because the lens came from abroad, and it was a recoiling and because the body a reimportation was from a country with lower Kaufkraft.Ich but seen in Germany exhibits that were sold with Body & 18-105er kit lens for scarce 400 Euro. That is to start with a very good offer and enough for about 3 years. The 18-55er I personally would not take, because you will not need the 18-55er really going on and sit on the costs remain.
