The CPU, which is to cool the radiator is in my case a non-overclocked Core i7 2600K processor.
Assembly:
Simple and easy. Most will have already mounted a screw pickup under their 1155er Board, then take to assemble 5 min. Otherwise you have to first bring the holder under the board, which, depending on the system stop times can take half an hour. The pump was with me via an adapter 12V directly from the power supply. Fan I have two built, one before and one pointing behind the slats, in the same direction. The front fan I'll settle on the CPU fan control, the rear I have connected to a free Chasis fan connector on the board.
Soundscape:
After switching on I was surprised. Positives: The pump can not hear (perhaps only from the 2013er version). But Negatives: The fans are very loud. Now I really wanted to spoil my dear fan, but even then it was still sound. The reason: the fins on the housing cause air turbulence, which in turn cause the sounds. Keeping the fan separately just in the hand they are in fact extremely quiet. also supplied the fan is very silent.
Remedy against the sounds require a little Craft:
The cause: The fan between cooling fins and housing caused noisy air turbulences.
The solution: I got myself a long screws and spacers (about 0,4cm long) mounted between fins and the fan and between the fan and case. Additionally, I have decoupled by rubber rings the fan from the case. But that is transported at the end of the airflow by train to the outside, has to this construction a hose. Since it was suitable to prune a sewage pipe in the appropriate diameter 3cm and draw it.
The soundscape is now pleasantly quiet.
Cooling capacity:
Please times a first: There pranksters who claim at room temperature 24 degrees, the CPU to bring to 10 degrees.
That you tell me please times physically, as you want to come under the temperature of the cooling air Honestly, that's just embarrassing to spread something.
In my case, room temperature at 23 degrees, housing closed, graphics card produces no heat:
Boxed cooler: Idle 44 degrees load to 75 degrees
Zalmann CNPS 9900A: Idle: 36 degrees to 65 degrees load
H60: Idle: 29 degrees, 49 degrees to load
Break in: I use Arctic Silver 5. Experience shows that it comes after 1-2 weeks for breakin. The temperature is then again 5-7 degree drop.
Result: The H60 brings over good brands fans quite a bit of cooling. Most of all, place in the housing. Noise is similar.
Important still: It makes a difference what to measure: The core CPUs have their own sensors for each core, which one reads eg CoreTemp. Most boards, however, have a sensor which is lower than the CPU. This sensor is responsible for the fan control. By 10 degrees are welcome to be between two measuring points. So, if you determined CoreTemp 40 degrees, it may be that your board measures 30 degrees. Unfortunately, in tests it appears not always what measurements were taken.
Conclusion:
Who wants to have space in the housing and good cooling performance, which I can recommend this system with a clear conscience. But who wants to reduce mainly noise, which is not happy with finished-water cooling. I would recommend a DIY oil cooling. 5 stars because we all swabs must always compare price with performance. For 60 euros a complete system with this performance is very good. Since you can accept also that the fan-blade design has weaknesses that you can remedy yourself.
Update 9/21/2013:
The expected drop / break-in temperature has occurred. the i7 2600K now runs unübertaktet stable with very nidrigen fan speeds.
Temperature values:
CPU own core values (eg via Coretemp): Idle: 36-40 ° C; Full load: max 54 ° C
Mainboard sensor: Idle: 27 ° C; Load: 45 ° C
Room temperature 22-23 ° C
Addendum Important Note:
Although it is even in the instructions, but after a lot about the lack of cooling capacity suits. When H60, an adapter for the power connector on the power supply itself is. The pump requires permanent 12V. Who runs the pump to a port on the board, which has to be sure that it is not a regulated connection. Anyone who is not sure should prefer to use the adapter and mount the pump directly to the power supply in case of doubt. If the pump does not get enough power because the controller of the board wants to reduce the "speed", they can not operate. under 10V she switched from the test altogether. - Then one must also not be surprised at excessive temperatures.
