+ + + + + High-quality design, fairly compact, stable
- - - - - Too high static friction of Kugelgekenks. This is exacerbated by the fact that a) the ball in the joint painted hirnrissig legally (!), Where the color to rub off despite factory greasing and accumulates in fat and causes black fingers when touched. b) is the Kugelgekenk open up what IMHO causes additional grinding edge. But at least it allows a clean (from a closed ball joint never would get to the grated paint out)
I have a RX100M3 on the tripod, the camera wieg 287 grams, so it is already rather difficult. Nevertheless, the camera moves with movements of the tripod with almost no delay. Especially in slow and medium speed turns, as if no joint because, since friction is IMHO too large.
Only quite jerky movements are compensated. For slow tracking shots the tripod brings almost nothing, because just the static friction prevents balancing. For quick journeys (from about 6..10 km / h) but the ruckartigeren movements provide the desired results. (Kamer Internal image stabilization course also active!) For very fast drives the balancing effect is of course even better, but here it can then easily happen that one abuts the 45 ° limit of Kugelglenks what then of course certainly brings a wobbler.
A disadvantage vs.. Operation without tripod is also that the fact that keeping the focus on a 5-7 cm long stem side even slightly strengthened on the X-axis camera shake (with lateral inclinations are compensated here)
- - - The maximum deflection at the center is about 45 °, but this is due to design. Here a universal joint would be a clear advantage
- - - The handle is too thin, you get "a cramp" in his hand, if you hold the thing longer. In addition, the foam rubber slips constantly sneaking around the handle upwards.
- The screws in the small weights are threaded rods, in my copy has dissolved when unscrewing a. There are transparent plastic washers to the thumbscrews. These disks can easily fall off.
Austarieren
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Tip for counterbalancing: permanent way wobbling overcomes the much too high static friction.
For RX100M3 I have the two small weights below * 1) screwed on and the camera so that the tripod is not forward, but to the left. The camera again yoy to about 5-10 °. twisted the stand to the left and so that you can still left Just look into the slot for the camera mounting screw. With the lens can be so very easily balance out perfectly. (With the tripod arm and lens forward, as originally planned, it is me now we have not been able to balance the camera. In addition, the locking of the perforated plate is not sufficiently strong or possible only with very firmly tightened screws)
* 1) This is both at the bottom and on the top side of the lower end. I prefer the bottom, as this does not lead to significant tilt in lateral jerks, at the same time this deliberately inferior balancing it relieved that the structure again settles correctly.
It always comes back to the situation that one gets by slightly correcting the position of the stop of the ball joint. The better you balanced, the easier happen.
The problem of stiction seems to reduce (with increasing wear of the superfluous black and totally counterproductive paint the ball in the ball joint =) with time. I have the black paint Crumble Fat mush wiped with toilet paper and renewed with fresh Vaseline. In addition, the hinge is rotated for some time in all directions, in order to "grind", then wiped off the abrasion + fat, then greased once.
Thereafter, a little better, even a little better, it was after wiping the Greasing, presumably because always remains a residual fat, at the same time but not so much fat is present, that it additionally inhibits the movement.
Possibly also oil or graphite powder would be better suited as Vaseline. The factory was certainly off either even Vaseline or machine grease.
The spirit level is chic, but unnecessary, you can also see so very well if the camera is straight.
