Approximately 1 month was the first break - after a power reinserting (socket).
The 2nd held two months longer. Then again, like the first, it gave up the ghost.
Since I have professionally much to do with electronics, I have the parts summarily disassembled and looked at the inner workings of exactly measured a bit and was a bit shocked.
I had really expected any miracles on circuit technology, but that was really too much.
Point 1)
How to read in some (Niedrigstern-) Reviews consumed the part in about 5 watts, regardless of whether the light is on or not.
My measurements have shown that when switched LEDs (Incidentally, there are three piece, it could be fitted 5 but) the current consumption is lower than when the LEDs are turned off.
This may sound contradictory at first glance, a glance in the custom built diagram explains but very quickly why:
Essentially it is a very simple power supply capacitor (not uncommon for such applications), after all, with a 4-way rectification (there are therefore used at half-waves). The LEDs are always connected to the low voltage and then pull about 9 mA.
When light falls on the sensor, this voltage via a transistor and a 82 Ohm resistor is virtually short-circuited. It then flow approximately 18mA and the voltage at the LEDs collapses to about 2 volts. Since 3 LEDs are connected in series is no longer enough these voltage of bringing order to the LEDs "to shine". If no (or little) light falls on the sensor reaches the voltage to the LEDs to drive, in my experiments but flowed still a residual current of approx 5mA through the transistor - Therefore, the total power consumption at 14mA LEDs lit approx.
If you add the two current values to the mains voltage (approximately 230 volts RMS) we arrive at the switched LEDs to approximately 3.2 watts, in off LEDs grew to 4.2 watts.
Simply put:
- Glow in the dark, the LEDs because they is enough energy available
- In the light, the voltage is short-circuited - thus the LEDs do not (and the power consumption is even higher).
- Let miteinfließen a bit more brains into circuit design - then the part might be better than sending
Point 2)
Again, in the low-star rating is often reported that the night lights by (more or less) short time give up the ghost. This is precisely what has happened also in mine.
It has been found that R1 was blown (and that should really not happen)
In a capacitor power supply sits in first place in front of the condenser normally a resistor limits the charge / discharge current of the capacitor. I know here sizes of about 100 ohms. Depending on the power-supply capacity of the power supply are the power resistors (partly more about the power split) in the range of 1/2 - 5 watts.
Here comes a 1-ohm resistor, 1/8 Watt used (said R1).
If you will be (worst case) the nightlight when discharged capacitor at 90 ° (ie, in the apex of the sine wave voltage) plugged lie in the resistance (still a Ohm) about 312 volts. P = U² / R - so really a lot (at least for a short time). This could well be the reason that the resistance when inserted just "burns away".
Simply put:
In my opinion, the resistance is too small (both Watt and on ohms). Therefore, he can break into the outlet when plugging in the night light.
In summary:
- Light well
- Who it trusts itself: if the part is broken: Screw and R1 exchange (I used 220 Ohm - because I just had nothing else there)
... But please caution: High voltage, danger to life! An incorrect resistance fire hazard!
- Power Consumption when switched off much too high - shame really.
Thus 3 stars (when functioning - and does not burn my hut with the repaired parts ...)
2 star deduction because the (for the same price) definitely could have done better.