My review is addressed to two reading groups. Firstly, people who wish to upgrade and what is Lightroom and what it can. You can scroll to the end of the same to the "new features". For everyone else, I describe all functions from A to Z. You can read right here on. :)
Despite the wealth of information I'm still not enumerate all the ways (can);)
What is Lightroom?
Lightroom is a RAW converter. This means that images processed less in the strict sense (as in Photoshop by Eben work is possible). While Lightroom provides a few of these possibilities, but not nearly as many as Photoshop. This is much more to the picture composition. Brightness, color, cut, etc. can be very good, quick and easy customized at will. Lightroom is now so advanced, can do (ca90-95%) in Lightroom that professionals their main work. Photoshop is only needed when as I said Eben work, panoramas, Inhaltssenstitive filling etc. are needed.
Even if it is a RAW converter, Lightroom can of course various other formats, such as JPG. Edit. This works extremely well also. Nevertheless everyone should shoot in RAW if you own LR (Lightroom). Because here a lot more information is stored in the image. Accordingly, better are the results after processing.
But now at last the program. I will list the main functions all in turn and what they change. In the end I'm going to pick up some points again at the tips.
Import & Cataloging:
The images are first imported into the program. The photos from the PC should not be imported from an SD card, so you can edit them later. Otherwise, Lightroom can display the file just yet, but not edit.
There are different views, you can add GPS tags, create photo books and slideshows. In addition, the program offers many opportunities for cataloging the photos. But I must confess that I hardly use and therefore not familiar myself here much. I edit photos and export them directly into JPGs. Only then I will arrange separately.
Here you can also edit videos easily. But you only cut the length, adjust exposure dynamics, saturation and contrast.
Processing options:
(Almost) All settings are set via sliders. The controller stands usually in the middle. The selection can then always lifted or reduced. All settings are to be made at any time to reverse. The work is therefore not destructive by.
1. Basic settings:
WA: change white balance (only available for RAW)
Temperature and Tint: Manual adjustment of white balance
Exposure: adjust underexposed or overexposed images
Contrast: images more / less contrast give (in RAW is usually an increase in required)
Lights: Only the overexposed areas can be made visible again
Lows: the same as lights, only for the underexposed areas
White: increases and decreases the intensity of the white areas
Black: How "White", only for the black image areas
Clarity: Does the pictures appear sharper and gives a sort of HDR look. Taking the colors but something about saturation.
Dynamics: the secondary colors in the image are more or less saturated
Saturation: How dynamic, only the primary colors (you photographed as a sunset are the primary colors of red, orange and yellow, depending on the mood of blue could be a secondary color.)
2. Gradiationskurve:
Here the contrast in more detail, by lights, shadows, and light and dark midtones be set.
3. Farkorrekturen:
Here, each color can be edited in detail. Either you choose the color in the image itself, or abide by the specifications (red, orange, yellow, green etc.). I can change the selected both the overall color (lighter, darker), raise the saturation or lowering or setting the luminance (brightness). This is always very handy, especially in abstract works, HDR when a specific 'look' rears, or the camera has just the colors are not so taken up, as you have collected at the photo and the mood of the condition.
4. Split Toning:
Here you can the lights and / or shadow a specific color assigned
5. Details:
Here you can sharpen the image, and remove the noise. Lightroom is really a master of noise reduction.
6. Lens Corrections:
Do you do your photos with a DSLR or system camera detects LR the camera and lens. Can then, depending on the selection, the vignette and chromatic aberrations and converging lines are removed. LR makes it now also automatically.
7. Effects:
Here you can add a vignette or grit.
8. Camera Calibration:
This only works for RAW. Here you can change later again the camera's internal settings. Depending on the make and model, the setting may be different here.
9. Tools:
As I said LR has a few editing tools onboard.
- Crop: To adapt the image detail and align the image
- Field repair: the selected area is replaced by another, similar field of instrumentation / very practical example in pimples on the face or dust on the sensor)
- Red-eye Correction: what it has always :)
- Graduated Filter: Post set her many of the previously mentioned settings. As the name suggests the effect is applied but in a course, that is in a direction that can be freely selected. This is often used in landscapes where the sky is processed differently from the foreground.
- Adjustment Brush: Here you have the same options as the graduated filter, only you yourselves can completely choose the field of instrumentation. In addition, there are a few pre-programmed settings (eg, teeth bleaching, Iris optimization)
10. New Features
Now it has to re-offer LR5 compared to LR4.
- Display areas under repair area: The picture is black and displays all the spots. For example, sensor dust / dust can be recognized immediately (in blue sky otherwise not so easy)
- Radial Filter: as the graduated filter, only that changes made to the interior or exterior of a circle or ellipse. For example, can be set by hand vignettes (only one of many possibilities)
- The repair is no longer limited to points, but also large areas and with individual selection of the range possible
- Automatic correction of converging lines (with buildings or architecture Generic often a big problem.) Which works just fine
Vlt there's more. But these are definitely the most important, and that I really use.
11 tips:
Upon setting of "White" and "Black" the Alt key. Then you see when setting everything black. If you now boosts eg white, you may know exactly the moment when in the bright areas overexposure begins (in black as for the underexposed areas)
Even when sharpening and noise removal will change the image. But here in black and white, to detect the pixels to better. Hold the button and the focus range in masking pressed. All white lines are sharpened. Usually is not the entire image to be sharpened, but only the foreground, or the edges of objects. Here can be adjusted perfectly.
A perfect match is often Photoshop or Photoshop Elements (Elements enough for amateur photographers probably mostly made). Largely because of the work plane, stronger corrections and Phtotomerge (panoramas, bracketing etc.)
Students and pupils pay significantly less.
Conclusion:
Is it worth to buy a new program. Absolutely! Everyone should be dealing with photography have this program. Just so you can really get the most out his photos (of course all the more in the combination with Photoshop (Elements with me)). Especially from RAW photos that look initially gone completely wrong, really can not quite brought out and so many photo are still saved.
During the upgrade that's something else again. Just look at the new features, and whether you really need this. Everyone needs to know for himself.
In summary, I express only a full purchase recommendation. A better program in combination with Photoshop does not exist in my opinion. I have certainly not all described functions, but at least (in my opinion) the most important, and I hope that I could help the other one or the purchasing decision. The program is worth the money in any case.
PS: have a few before / after uploaded images to show the possibilities
