Background:
I am the proud owner of a Nikon D750 full frame camera and to inter alia a Nikon SB-910 Aufsteckblitzes. Second flash I had recently tested the Yongnuo i-TTL Speedlight YN568EX for Nikon (see separate review), but decided finally for quality reasons for a second SB-910. In my mini-studio I work at present mainly unleashed in iTTL (Intelligent Through The Lens) exposure mode. As Master I usually use this the built in camera mini flash unit, which controls the external flash units in slave mode via infrared.
The internal flash is of course limited in several respects. The biggest limitation is that you can not remove it. With an attached flash I never flashes convenient because I find that the images rarely good for something, even if flash me indirectly. The built-in flash of the D750 is its flash output naturally much weaker than the SB-910th That bothers me but little, because usually I dark it with a clip-on, and only use its infrared signal to control the lightning unleashed in their performance and trigger. Another limitation weighs but a lot more. Although the internal flash has the usual three channels, but can remotely control only two flash groups (A and B). One could for example use the SB-910 as the master, because the can remotely control three flash groups (AB and C). But if I've been working with off-camera flash, then I do not want one of my precious flashes sat on my camera and waste for remotely controlling the other. Although Nikon offers a pure control unit, the SB-800, but what I had read about it, I am not convinced. Its price is also not to be sneezed. In addition, it is subject, as previously outlined solution also another limitation: in the remote control of unleashed flashes per infrared light signal, the slaves must see the Master usually immediately. (Exceptions are possible when flashing in smaller rooms where the infrared control signal to reach the slaves via the walls and ceiling.) Finally, other light sources (for example other flashes or the sun) interfere with infrared control. And their reach is limited (there is about 10 m). But now no one should have gotten the impression that one could flash not unleashed with the infrared remote control. One can! One just needs to live with the mentioned limitations.
Presentation remote control of flash units wirelessly. While you can read, that there can be no uniform system, due to different free frequency bands in different countries, but the 2.4 MHz band seems to be available everywhere.
Systems:
In an American book about sports photography, which I just read, the appropriate for professional use PocketWizard was named for the flash release via radio. The PocketWizard system is available as a kit for Nikon with a MiniTT1 transmitter (Transmitter), two Flex TT5 transceivers, and an AC3 Zone Controller. According to the description, it is important for the Nikon photographers iTTL compatible. Approximately 500 Euro you have to shell out for the set, however, already; purchased separately, it gets even more expensive. When the Pocket Wizard system is used by a staff member of the hip US magazine Sports Illustrated, it's probably OK. Nevertheless, I did not like that you need to control the remote flash units two ECUs. By MiniTT1 transmitter which receives the control signals from the camera, you can easily control a group of unleashed flashes from the camera, as if it were a shoe mount flash. But if you want to work with up to three groups of slaves, you need additionally the AC3 Zone Controller. Not really convincing two when having to insert small devices on the camera superimposed. Also you must fold out to the receivers still small antennas. Other wireless remote release come from without.
So the question is: is there for serious amateurs a lower-cost alternative to PcketWizard that is iTTL-capable, which has a single control unit, and has a sufficiently good quality, so that it fits into a high-quality, other equipment?
In addition to the PocketWizard system, there is known, at the lower end of the price scale the Yongnuo radio system for Nikon with the YN-622 TX wireless HSS i-TTL master flash triggers and the YN-622N i-TTL remote flash triggers. Both I had ordered and tested. But after both slave devices each one of AAA batteries (brand goods from Eneloop) could not be clamp properly, the whole system went back to the dealer.
Now finally the Pixelking Pro i-TLL Wireless Flash Trigger System for Nikon. Minimum you need a transceiver as a master controller and a receiver (receiver). There is also the whole cost ordered as a set with a transceiver and two receivers, and I had, since I work with two external flashes.
Packing:
It is well and protects the device during shipping.
Feel:
The units look good and feel good too. Only the on / off switch and the other switches on the sides make a somewhat low-impression right and left.
Commissioning:
Easily two AA batteries in Pixelking Transceiver and Receiver inserted. SB-910 flash unit plugged into the receiver and found. Receiver plugged into the supplied flash foot. Transceiver pushed into the hot shoe of the camera and found. Everything turned from the periphery. So flash unit (in normal mode and not in slave mode, because it will think so, she was sitting directly on the camera). Receiver. Instant is triggered by even a flash. Reassuring. Or, was it a mistake? Everything from, and again from the beginning. Again dissolves after turning on the receiver automatically from a flash. Is probably a test flash, is signaled by the that the flash unit understands the receiver. You have to know, so you do not accidentally looking at the lightning and is dazzled with the automatic test flash! Pressed white button on the receiver, again a test flash. Good. Now transceiver and the end camera. The transceiver detects the camera, because a small camera icon appears on the monitor transceiver. Forced flash directed against the wall, white button on the transceiver. It lightens. So, the communication of the transceiver via the receiver for flash work. Finally triggered Camera: it flashes. Thus, a system function: out-of-the-box, as the Americans say. On Transceiver Channel 1 and all groups were pre-selected for this already, the receiver also channel 1 and group A (but what is inconsequential if the transceiver all groups are selected). If the whole system does not work once, you can, beginning with the development of sample flash on the flash unit, locate the fault quickly by going through the above chain of steps. But do so in particular the white knobs on top of the transceiver and the receiver, for example, does not have the Yongnuo system.
Service:
The canal and the groups are selected at the beginning of the work of one. Since it is not so important how fast that goes. For other functions it is different. For example, you want while working in the studio on and off without leaving his position often tentatively individual flash groups. This can be accomplished easily in the camera's internal menu control with my Nikon for the built-in flash as a master. In the Pixelking system it goes by. On the left side of the transceiver, the yes accepts the mast a bonus, the corresponding group button pressed until the transceiver monitor the group is displayed as on or off On restarting, you can then choose between iTTL or Manual mode. This is both very fast because it is intuitive and you do not have to pass through a shimmy menu control. When off-camera flash one must also often the flash output of a group to reduce (or increase). That's when Pixelking system also easily. In manual mode, you can adjust the flash output of each group of 1/1 (full power) to 1/64 (lowest grade). In i-TTL mode, you can flash output by zooming can be in any flash group also, to 200 mm. All of this I will not explain in detail here, because I want to submit a review and write no operating manual.
Operating Instructions:
It comes as the aforementioned Yongnuo Speedlight in Chinese and English, therefore. English is OK for me, but the font size is not. Because you need a magnifying glass or must (like me) to be short-sighted, so you can read them. In addition, the grammar leaves something to be desired. Although it is not quite as bad as in the Yongnuo Speedlight, but hindered but understanding. The diagrams explaining the controls are large enough. But the images are again too small and therefore quite useless. Luckily, you can at the transceiver experiment safely without fear that something breaks. The English part of the manual is available as a PDF file on the Internet. For me it is, like all other written instructions on my photographic equipment in my Dropbox, and so I have, on the go, on mobile and tablet wherever you go. With the Amazon Kindle app can this PDF file in turn read very well. Only the pictures are still as bad as in the printed manual.
Accessories:
The transceiver receiver set is a stable transport containers in which can accommodate the set, and also a Stand and USB cable, both of which also accompanied. However, for the second receiver in the tank no more space.
Far End Camera Control:
If you still buys a separately sold USB cable to connect a receiver can be by means of the cable to the camera. If you then hold the receiver in your hand, you can, in order to avoid vibrations, remote trigger with which the camera button (on cable length). But that can also wirelessly and easily with the ML-L3 wireless remote controller of Nikon, which I would prefer in this case. It is different when you put the receiver to the camera's hot shoe. Then you can remotely trigger the button of the camera via radio transceiver. (When the autofocus is switched on, is of course also focused.) This solution has a longer range than the wireless remote controller, and also going around corners. Defect cable (ordered) I have not tried.
Review:
Packaging, haptics, simple commissioning, operation accessories, everything OK. For five points. Only the manual not keeping pace with the rest. A deduction of points. This should for Pixelking also be an incentive rectify what would be possible with little effort and would not cost much.
Recommendation:
The Pixelking system is suitable for demanding, quality-conscious amateurs (like me) who do not necessarily need the cheapest offer.
