We wanted our drum door rather than from the inside to secure the outside, because our kids have figured out how the knob lock our front door works. This function complies with the lock very well. We have chosen especially for this slightly higher castle, since the price in relation to the front door is very low. In the cheap locks I am concerned (whether justified or not) that they do not last very long - and then you have a huge hole and several small screw holes in the door.
The castle came in and went to the installation. To this end, I would like to give a few tips that are hopefully useful for other hobbyists (by an amateur amateur!):
1. The following tools are needed: to bring 34-37mm hole drills, drill 13 mm (in our case 13 Holzbohrer), a hacksaw to the screws to length and possibly a Ringzaange for the locking ring. Cordless screwdrivers, screwdriver of course, but that's clear. In particular, the size 13 drill is not necessarily standard. We only had a 10 and then have the hole so that about enlarged. A size 13 would have been easier but.
2. In the Manual various backset specified, but does not mention why you should use this. The backset decides how far the locking cylinder outside sitting away from the frame, to have it flush with the door handle. It took a good while before I understood that. In a Falztür therefore outside measure of the frame until the middle door garnish and add the rebate to. In our case, I had the backset to 72mm change, otherwise the cylinder would not have been justified.
3. Change the backset: This requires above the screw for locking is released and the locking ring are located on the underside (Caution: these things tend to the moon to fly, if you are not careful). After the complete locking unit can be pushed out. It took a while for me until I get it, but it really goes. The "driving element" (round thing, which is responsible for the closing process with key) is offset from the front into the rear hole and put the lock ring again Next. Insert the bolt back is not easy, as you press down the front and rear spring must push. But also goes.
4. note the closing direction: We had installed everything, everything worked just the closing direction was exactly opposite to the normal lock (linksrum Locking, rechtsrum Aufschschließen). The reason was that we have a DIN-left door (hinges Left) and had used the bolt exactly as he arrived: The security link according above.The meant for us all break down again and turn the bolt again. So make if you have a DIN left or DIN-right door (which is, incidentally, also quite good in the instructions, you just have to understand). Pay attention at Din links !! sure that the nose on the drive member facing down If you do not pay attention on it and the nose points upward, the key can be subsequently no longer deduct as a turn of the key is missing (unfortunately that is not in the manual!). I suspect the same is true the other way around for DIN right: So for DIN right-catch + nose from the drive element to the top.
5. The drilling is quite simple and really needs little explanation. Since one is pierced very important that the drill is really just stated, but that goes without saying. Only the choice of the screw was not easy, because the template provides a number of different patterns. We opted for the 4 main holes and the selected template with the 6 holes (which are 4 outside the correct holes). The template we have each fixed with adhesive.
6. Next comes the screw. And the cost too nervous. Our door is 50mm thick. That is the short carriage bolts (M6x27) are too short and the long (M6x80) far too long. We had to bring the long-to-measure and it goes like this: top screw: 50mm door + 5 mm from the lock case - 15mm cylinder box (the cylinder box is 30mm deep and the screw can be 15mm reindrehen): Result 40mm
The lower bolt must be a little shorter, because it is the cylinder in the way otherwise and no longer can be used completely. Ca 8-10 mm had to get away. That sounds possibly. Somewhat complicated and is not mentioned in the instructions with a word, but is not so difficult if you ansich it has in mind.
And do not forget the first! with the two M6x25 to fix the cylinder box. If the long screws in it, it is too late.
The bolt must be removed to get at the screw holes (at least at 72mm backset). so
7. driving pin (the part which turns the key): This thing has to be shortened. It is important that the pen (zero) looking out over the driving element. If it does, the bolt can no longer be used.
If all this sitting, it is in principle geschafft.Der rest is just composed.
For those who are wondering if the castle is also suitable without the cylinder: I think so. However, then the lower drive element (the thing, which is responsible for the castle) has to be removed because of the lock case can not otherwise plan are on the door. We first thought about it, but we decided against it, since it with the door locked from the outside is not possible to open it. When you wrap in the flat just with eg, sucking etc. employed, it would be quite impractical for the wants pure.
As you can see my description, we have a little used until the thing was sitting at the door. This was partly a by the great respect that I have in front of the door (if we had made a mistake, so we would have had a huge hole in it) and, secondly, that we were not really make sense of the guidance at many points. It may be that we have conducted ourselves in a few places a bit silly, so I hope this description helps others here. Now that the lock is installed, it looks very good and works perfectly.
