I understand the hype about this lens not entirely successful. I own it now nine months, it really often used in time and gained a lot of experience with it.
1. bayonet
The often doubted plastic bayonet closure is not a problem. The lens snaps clean and tight, and I have certainly assembled and disassembled without any "wear and tear" to date more than 100 times. Also it goes with me when photographing often rude to (Outdoor - mostly people photography) and I'm from the same setting often three pictures: a portrait of the here discussed 50s, a zurechtgezoomte shot or medium long shot with the 18-55mm II IS and a super long shot with an 8mm fisheye (Samyang). Thus, the lenses are living in a flying change and the plastic bayonet of the 50s has never made chips. The concerns often expressed about its durability I can not understand. I see practically no difference between the plastic bayonet of the 50s and the metal bayonet my Fisheyes.
2. Focus
Well. No matter what lighting conditions, "trust" is something else. I express now generally 2-3 times from, and take every new focus on. All too often the focus was sitting wrong and good attitudes were lost, which of course only noticed at home on the big screen of the computer.
The focus is - unlike the bayonet - definitely a ernstzunehmenr gripe!
I stress on the point that I have two pieces ordered me from this 50 to me to be able raussuchen "Better" in peace, and have one afterwards returned. In both the focus-waste factor was the same. It is difficult to specify a percentage, sometimes a lot of photos are good, then it knocks very often wrong. But I think an average of 20-30% of all photos are excessive waste (reduced barely usable) or total focus garbage (obvious blurred).
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The focus problems are, incidentally NOT twilight-lapse!
The also occur in garish sunshine!
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3. Bokeh
I have wondered why the light spots bokeh looked so ugly pentagonal and peeped my visor closely. Indeed! The lens has 5 aperture blades !! Who builds a thing like that !? : -o
6 slats would result a symmetrical image, 8 would not be able to differentiate (circular light spots) but this strange 5-blade bokeh this simple 50s just look ugly. : O | I think. Do not misunderstand! The exemptions of the lens is wonderful! But clear-cut lights outside the focal plane see just like blurry pentagons. And that's just crap.
Can you imagine how stupid a blurred Christmas tree looks in the background with pentagonal candle flames? Hexagonal would star character. That would fit. But pentagonal just look stupid.
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Conclusion:
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I give it 4 stars Onjektiv. It has enabled me, in her beauty with high resolution mapping and capture many beautiful women. : O) But it produces no discussion also a lot of committee. As an introduction, it is thoroughly recommended and I recommend it to anyone who has to pay on a budget. But one should not overstate the objective. And the almost magical reputation that precedes him, is rather naive euphoria about the low price payable as a fulfilled genuine photographic claim.
The exemption is very good. The light intensity also, even if you have to limit that you practically can not fully appreciate, because it gets hot only from Aperture 2.8. With further open aperture are the photos more "Let's see if this works out" experiments.
I'm going to eventually buy definitely the 1,4er. That's three times more expensive, but "Photography" means now time "investment". In terms of "time and employment" and in terms of "Finance". The wages are photos at a higher optical level. And with the experience rising expectations. In addition to faster and significantly safer AF has the 1,4er 8 (in words: eight) diaphragm blades and accordingly a smooth circular bokeh satisfy the professional demands.
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Supplement (09.01.2012):
I see the way despite my meticulousness in terms of image quality is no visible difference in quality between the "50mm / 1.8 II" and my kit Objekiv "18-55mm II"! Neither in sharpness even in resolution. The kit is characterized more CAs minimal at the edges. But in the definition is the "18-55mm II" no worse. Interestingly, the edge sharpness of the 50s in the four corners is different at different heights! (Noted with frontal test photos of well Sunlit rauverputztem masonry and orthogonal photographed as a sunny meadow. Everything from the tripod.)
In my opinion, there are only three significant differences between the "18-55mm II" and the "50mm / 1.8":
1. The focus of the kit lens makes much safer.
2. The 50s will require considerably less light than the kit lens.
The practical minimum aperture of 2.8 satisfy completely even in low light and that makes an enormous difference to the maximum aperture of 3.5 Kit at initial focal length (18mm). At a stabilizer (to the 50s has not) because you can do without.
3. The 50mm is due to the larger aperture worlds better free! This is a real photographic advantage ... poor focus or not.
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Supplement (07.03.2012): IMPORTANT!
I shot a series of portraits of myself a while ago. By radio remote control. In studio environment: uniform gray background, 500 watt halogen from the left, 500 watt halogen from the right, plus a golden reflector. So optimal conditions. I have raised a total of 92 times.
The conditions here were always constant:
1. I was always in the same place!
2. The aperture F2.2 was always constant. So the one meter behind me distant background was already blurred and I had not subsequently indemnify and the lens is already neat sharp at F2.2. When the focus SITS! I emphasize this subjunctive!
3. As focus sensor only the middle cross-type sensor of my 30D was active. The always aimed at my face. I stood in front of the frontal camera. (Distance to the camera about 2m.)
So there were optimal Bedinungen for the camera: ample light for clean focus and really high shutter speeds and an immovable, constant positioned motive.
Result:
Of the 92 pictures are exactly 46 more or less blurred and not to use it. These are exactly 50% Committee. Under conditions Studio!
I remind you that I had two of these lenses ordered and tested. Both had the same focus line. My objective is so obviously representative of the entire model series.
I give the lens now only 2 stars. It makes nice pictures, if you controlled every single recording immediately and, if necessary, still pulls the trigger 2-3 times. Who trusts the Objetiv, so just start knipst how to do it in reliable focusing lenses, which will inevitably be disappointed. So a rejection rate is unreasonable. And I say, who was quite fond of the lens at the start and has really photographed so much.
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My experience is based corrected Conclusion:
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As I said I give the lens only 2 stars.
Anyone who wants to experiment, is disappointment openly, much time has (flowers photographed, etc.) and to repeat a recording repeatedly is ready and who wants to have their first experience with shallow depth of field - who can buy it. However, those who photographed versatile, who photographed people in (even less) movement, who attaches great importance to undisturbed workflow, in short, who has overcome the Anfängerstatium and wants to work quickly, which I say clearly and forcefully that he was the 100, to save the euro and 1,8er twice drauflegen and equal the 1,4er for ample 300, - - to buy!
I stage the 1,8er as a toy and exercise lens.
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Improve focus performance!
Experience update for another nine months later (Saturday, 25/08/2012):
I just commented to a comment on my review and wants the same even attach here as it will be of interest to every reader.
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Imaging performance compared to other 50mm lenses:
The objective is - when the focus sits - in imaging performance (very aberrationsarm) and resolution in fact the best 50mm lens for Canon cameras! Better than the 1,4er and even a bit better than the much acclaimed and much more expensive Sigma (the focus should be properly adjusted almost always only to the camera). I have extensively researched in forums and what I just said, has emerged here.
So the Focus When sitting, then this lens is really very good.
To improve focus performance, the following should be noted:
Photograph basically stopped down to min. F2.8, F3.5 or better f4.0! Because you are also with this focus lens sharpness weak technically quite safe ground and can take advantage of its good image quality! The autofocus is more accurate by the slight dimming and the depth of field is growing on a practicable range. Because note: even at f2.8 you when they shoot a portrait from a distance of 3m, a depth of focus (ie really knackscharf) of viellecht 2cm! If you get stuck in more detail (1m), shrinking of approximately 1cm! This means that you focus on the pupil of the model and the batting tips or eyebrows are - 1: 1 viewed - already back out of focus! When the focus is not sitting, it is the other way around: the batting tips and eyebrows are knackscharf, but not the pupil. That is annoying.
The maximum aperture is in my opinion virtually worthless. For two reasons:
- For Potraitfotografie unusable focus
- The autofocus performance schlafft unacceptable from
The maximum aperture should only be used for really dark scenes when each photon has to be captured and then only with the greatest possible distance to the subject.
So dim light and practice a lot! And you will be able to work with the lens. ... And any attitude to safety always trigger twice! O) At least at the beginning.
At my 2 star rating this tip does not change anything, because he just make out a virtue of necessity. The lens is technically good illustration, AF technically but miserable. The given notice here compensates for this weakness only.
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Another tip how razor-sharp photos in immovable tripod hinkriegt:
- Camera on the tripod
- To target (Real!) Object
- Live View at - magnified 10X
Screw the panel to 11 -
Put focus on MF -
- Press and hold stop-down (so the lens closes to f / 11 and the Live View image is correspondingly sharp)
- Focus manually at rest
- Depth of Field Preview Release
- Open bezel to the value required for the photo
- Trigger
That gets you - provided the necessary time - wonderful way! In the Live View one can move the displayed image section as desired using the arrow keys. So you can just pick the point in the display on which you then manually focused. This is wonderful.
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