But be careful:
The enclosure does not provide the compression of the video stream. It's on the computer, via the capture software, to take charge. However, a small video file size enjoying great compression quality is not obtained in real-time, even on a high-end machine. Therefore, I recommend you take a screenshot with a very low compression (stream recorded at 60 Mbps) and then convert the file into your final video format. This will allow you to make high quality videos while limiting the visual artifacts resulting from poor quality compression.
When you capture video, you necessarily need a quick check disk. The manufacturer recommends saving a configuration based on 2 SSD discs in RAID-0 (stripping). If this is the configuration that I use, this requirement is largely exaggerated. A single SSD should do the trick, or even a SSD cache-based configuration with a standard hard disk for short videos, but at the risk of not being able to capture the largest format.
In addition, the housing refuse to register protected HDMI stream. A composite (analog) input exists for a PS4 recording. However, if you want to save a mobile accessory HDMI via an HDMI adapter, make sure it does not leave an HDMI stream protected by HDCP (HDMI DRM) prohibiting recording of the video (which appears on screen, however).
If HDCP is part of your HDMI stream, then you will find a hardware accessory that turns off (a "bug" found on some HDMI splitters), or use third party software on your PC to save the contents of your video screen (such as FRAPS and PlayClaw, or Open Broadcaster Software and Taksi).
Finally, note that this accessory is not suitable for recording video from your own PC. It will be possible, but against-productive compared to a software-only solution (FRAPS, PlayClaw, Open Broadcaster Software, Taksi, cited above).
