Unbelievable (Unbelievable)

But first, one by one. My car (BMW, six-cylinder diesel, 2.5 tds) lost for quite some time cooling water. Namely, obviously in both directions (on the relief valve and into the combustion chambers - seen in the white vapor from the exhaust). This was not a regular and uniform but it was very clearly present.

An exhaust gas test at the cooling water reservoir then brought the proof (gases in the air layer proved). The diagnosis was head gasket / crack in the engine block.

So what do with such a diagnosis on a 15 year old car with a mileage beyond the 300,000 km? A repair is leaving proportionality grounds. In a free workshop will be payable for an average of 1.500. This is true but only if it is exclusively the head gasket and no further damage is found. At worst, it no longer pays to the engine ever reassemble. The wear on the piston rings, timing chains, valves etc.'s certainly already available. I had the car so actually already written off.

By chance I then become on this means attention here. The good reviews are once made a positive impression to me; as hobbyists with good contacts to car mechanics I was at this time but also the reputation of these (and other) sealants known. Especially since I previously knew only of possible seals in the region of the cooler.

I imagined seriously the question of how it would work at all. Because in the field of motor reign indeed much rougher conditions (pressure, temperature), as for example in a cooler. Especially since I still have a diesel (even higher pressure than in a gasoline engine) and at that time also had problems with the crank case vent what the pressure in the engine increased again.

So I read a further, came across the website of the manufacturer (Dr. OK Wack Chemie), looked me a couple of videos on the Internet. Here one finds but rather other products of Bar's Leaks from the US. It therefore seems here to be a German license production.

Since I was not quite convinced and always by my side were still a few unanswered questions, I decided to write to the manufacturer. I also got prompt response. Here are the questions and answers at a glance:

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Question 1: What is the difference between the original and the variant Liquid? Has a variant advantages and disadvantages over the other?

Answer 1: The product Bar's Leaks Original contains as an active ingredient a coarse granules which gradually disintegrates after filling into the cooling circuit into tiny particles.

When product Bar's Leaks Liquid this decay process is already anticipated largely. Bar's Leaks Liquid is thus a fine granule, which also breaks down into tiny particles. Compared to Bar's Leaks Original Bar's Leaks Liquid can be much easier pour. Finer grit Bar's Leaks Liquid also works even faster.

Once both products are completely disintegrated, both products are completely identical and equally effective.

Question 2: Does only the original version of a TÜV certification? According to the description, yes. But on the can of Liquid version you can also find the TÜV mark.

Answer 2: When the agents of Bar's Leaks Liquid Bar'Leaks original and are identical in principle applies the TÜV certificate for the product Bar's Leaks Liquid. Was tested only Bar's Leaks Original since Bar's Leaks Liquid was not commercially at this time.

Question 3: Should we run only in stand within 15 minutes from the engine or you can ride quite normally? How fast is where the effect or how long you have to expect the effect?

Answer 3: It is important that the dose of active ingredient to spread rapidly and completely in the cooling system. These can be driven without any problems, as long as the cooling system allows it. After at least 30 minutes then enters the sealing action.

Question 4: Should we increase the dosage (to another can) when the action after some time does not start?

Answer 4: If there is no sealing action experience, also brings an additional socket Bar's Leaks no improvement. An overdose must be avoided to prevent clogging!

Question 5: Should one after a year simply to fill after a can change or advance the cooling water (and possibly previously treated with the cleaner)?

Answer 5: The seal of the leakage is limited in most cases permanently and not at 12 months. Only the unused excess, which remains in the cooling system is to seal new leaks due to wear after 12 months no longer able. That does not mean that the sealing effect only lasts for 12 months and then the product must be reapplied. If your cooling system 12 months after the filling is still tight, you need nothing else to do. For later, reuse the cooling system should be cleaned beforehand in any case with Bar's Nural.

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Eventually, I decided to order the remedy. I wrestled then still a few days with the filling, but when it was worse again with the loss of coolant and I was afraid that the agent no longer eventually could act, I did it.

But when filling me was still queasy. After opening the can you see a granulate in a fluid (which can, incidentally, was filled for me with less than half of the level, but seems to be normal). I can still remember exactly how I saw it and wondered if I should really clean fill now. I did it. And it should not be sorry.

When filling is very important that the instructions on the back you look. The amount of these doses unit here (160g) is scheduled for 9-12 liters of coolant. So precisely in advance inquire how many liters of water the circuit comprises and adjust the amount if necessary! We must not content to fill in the expansion tank (!), But it has to tilt directly into the radiator. This is in modern vehicles no longer so easy because there is no cap on the radiator more. Alternatively, you can fill it but in a tube. I have also done so.
I have taken off the top cooling tube, the outgoing cooling water is collected in a tank (in order to fill it later can). Then clean the filled contents of the can and the rest who still remained in the can, solved by cooling water and in turn filled.
Then the coolant hose connected quickly and moored and make sure that the drug does not leak again.
It is important that you then allow the engine running even at least 15 minutes and the heater in the vehicle fully turning up. After running the missing coolant (antifreeze) replenish. But Beware! Scalding!

The cooling water I had incidentally not changed. This was only slightly contaminated, because I've filled in the same problems with the loss of regular fresh water with antifreeze. However, the manufacturer of the sealant recommends a change in contaminated cooling water; best with a previous cleaning (Bar's Nural).

The effect also came really quickly. I have only once topped cooling water. Since then, it holds (about 300 km). It's really incredible, but it worked. I'll always be an update, since I will check the coolant level regularly from now on. Should it hold long term, I would be overjoyed. At the next cooling water changes (about 2 years) but I will use previously definitely the Bar's Nural for cleaning.

Another note: If you open the cooling water reservoir after use with Bar's Leaks in the hot state, the cooling water can make a creamy impression. But this is apparently normal.