The ambitious photographer is immediately apparent that the aperture margin is very concentrated. While manufacturers specification panel 11 indicates the smallest aperture, which in the operating modes S (Shutter Priority) and A (Aperture Priority) unfortunately only aperture diaphragm 8. 11 läst only in manual mode (M) to adjust. Bearing in mind that the maximum aperture at the telephoto end is 5.6, you have just 2 full stops for the design available. At maximum wide angle setting is the maximum aperture 2.8 'there is something more (namely, the "full" 4 steps and 5.6) between them to the smallest aperture 8. Tip for beginners: Enter in "Wikipedia" search "dazzling array a (optics) "to learn more about the stops. The limitation on aperture 8 with the Fujifilm HS 20 EXR recalls unfortunately for equipment and pocket cameras - there are only 2 full stops normally. For effects such as night scenes with "radiant" light sources or a sunrise / sunset with "sunrays" you need but ever smaller apertures as 11 or 16. The DSLR lenses have aperture settings to 22 (rare perhaps even to 32). The 22 I do not expect from this model, of course, that would be exorbitant, but stop 11 (not only in M mode) and possibly 16 even one would have been desirable - after the target group of this camera are not only "clippers".
The second point, which requires a change of previous habits, is the continuous shooting. The camera here (among other) the "High Speed Series". They internally stores the last 8 shots, as long as you _halb_ the shutter button pressed hät as usual during focusing. So one wonders at the beginning that it is "click-click-click-click ..." picks up where you wanted to focus. Is focused in this function "in passing". Taken to a passing finishing vehicle, one must at the end (for example, when the tip of a train has left the image section) do not forget pressing the shutter _ganz_, otherwise the waiting of the subject and the whole Sereienaufnahme was for the ... [ass] because not a single photo will be saved. The storage process of the series will be started only by the final complete by pressing the shutter, because the camera so only acknowledges that the series is complete.
In the first experiments with the "High Speed Series" I managed well, after a short half-press the shutter button (as in the normal case for focusing usual) _gleich_ quite push through. Then the device has received only 2 or 3 images and zoom approaching train was basically much too far away. The subject is then also lost because saving the "High Speed Series" several seconds. In quick succession following trams (I have tried at an intersection with a lively trams) was then the second train as a motif also lost because the series was not stored (used memory card is a Transcend '8GB SDHC' Class 10, which is a quite fast card).
Taking the Sereinmodus "Start 4", the classic behavior exists: shutter button halfway Press = focusing, shutter button press = Series starts. The camera then takes on, as long as you hold the shutter button, max. However, 4 images.
In "Adv." there is a mode "Pro Low Light '. The mode is designed for "point and shoot" (so to read in the manual). You can set any ISO-end of scale. In a tunnel under a suburban rail (light sources: Leuchtstofflampoen plus at both ends in case finishing daylight) Camera turned this one on its own ISO 1600. The camera in the mode "Pro Low Light" 4 shots in immediate succession and offset them immediately afterwards into a single image. This worked well with a normal step through the image running woman, to the movement did not fail the netting. But the intention of Fujifilm to reduce noise to the Calculation of 4 images, apparently because more will remain visible success. At ISO 1600 nevertheless created for the ambitious photographer clearly visible image noise, even if the camera has one for their class already a fairly large image sensor (1/2-inch EXR CMOS with primary color filter). In assessing but also comes the "pampering" in this regard that, if you otherwise uses a full-frame DSLR, with which one can go without hesitation to 1,600 ISO. It must also be clear that you can not with a Bridg Camera 1/2-inch sensor can vegleichen the noise of that DSLR. That would not be the classic comparison of apples and oranges, but rather have the proportions of apple and currant.
The HS 20 has a huge zoom range, but beware: In the maximum zoom setting can be blur-free images hardly achieve even without a tripod. This is normal and has nothing to do with the camera (but with the laws of optics). Particularly Photo Frischlinge should there afterwards not be disappointed!
A few more words about replacement parts, whose Mitkauf (to have all priced about the Amazon website) is recommended in any case. Thanks to other reviews on the Internet (not least on Amazon) I was able to achieve a "precision landing", ie a very optimal in my view selection meet (Surcharges for all together about 100 euros) here with the following choices:
- SDHC Memory Card Transcend "8GB SDHC" (Class 10) (ASIN: B003VNKNEG)
- 8 batteries Sanyo eneloop (4 + 1 to use reserve ratio) including 2 plastic boxes (ASIN: B0011W8E9K)
- Plug-in charger Ansmann "Powerline 4 Zero Watt" variant without supplied battery (ASIN: B002CCZUX6). If you already have a charger for AA batteries, you can omit it or take the handy second charger on the go; Auto Adapter is.
- UV blocking filter (is already "duty" to protect the high quality lens from mechanical influences and dirt): B & W (= Schneider Kreuznach) UV HAZE "XS-Pro Digital", 58 mm (ASIN: B004OVE17Y)
- Ready case: Lowepro "Zoom 45 AW" (ASIN: B003658PH6). In the top loading the camera with an attached UV filter plus an attached lens hood (the latter included in the camera kit) fits exactly. The small outer pocket holds the USB cable and a box with 4 AA batteries or rechargeable batteries. The lid inner bag is tailor-made for the following small cleaning cloth for lens / filter cleaning:
- B + W Photo-Clear Microfiber cloth (18x18 cm, ASIN: B000H3WXI2). Comes in a Plastic Case.
Conclusion:
(1) Those who wish to work intensively with photography as a beginner and a good _Erst_gerät investigated the attacks better equal to a DSLR, even if that is more expensive along with the lenses. With the HS 20 one would immediately limits the motif design or in adverse shooting conditions.
(2) those who only occasionally photographed and want as a simple have something better pocket camera, has with the HS 20 definitely much better options than with pocket devices.
(3) Who the Kamrea like me as a second device searches, must be between DSLR and the HS 20 can change. An alternative to the HS 20 would otherwise be likely to only the lower DSLR class (eg with Nikon DX-sensor). When that gets to grips and discontinued while scratching at what the DSLR and the HS 20 can not provide, the latter is certainly a good choice as a companion for each day in addition to "large equipment".
(4) An advantage of the Fujifilm HS 20 EXR compared to other system cameras is that the zoom is done manually here and not electrically connected to a rocker. So you can adjust the zoom for a really continuously and on the other hand he does not go back to the initial position when the camera (miitels energy saving function) off themselves or they are off by hand, because the subject is not there yet. For models with the zoom lever Wide position is the basic position; at every turn off the camera, the lens will go back there and waiting times (as in approach oncoming vehicles) then the subject after switching must be redecorated. This offense does not apply to the HS 20, which was a major reason for choosing me.
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