A few truths about "Retrofits"

For quick reader: Very pleasant "medium hot" light (3000K) good quality (CRI> 80) is approximately equal to the brightness of the tube previously used. This statement, however, be treated with caution. The tube emits mostly down (during a normal fluorescent tube radiates in all directions and, if necessary, must be directed through a reflector the light downwards).
Note When replacing: it can (without electrical intervention) only tubes without an electronic ballast to be replaced. It recognizes the fact that this does not have starters (the small round rausschraubbare member - unless he electronically sit - ensures that the tubes the classic flashing cycle when switching through). Who is not sure, please consult a professional. If the tube is a new "Starter" in which has to be necessarily exchanged with the existing! One should also use a sticker (not included), that there is no "normal" fluorescent tube more can be operated. That is why this type of retrofit in "expert forums" somewhat controversial.

Result: Almost immediately bright pleasant light.

--- Withdrawable for "wiseacre" ---

Criteria for the selection of retro-fit lamps.

How bright?
The number of lumens indicates how bright the light is. But unfortunately that's not the whole truth.
Depending on the use of the lamp, the results may vary.
Example: A Bulb 500 Lumens distributed evenly in a radiator, but by a reflector most of the light
would like to draw to vorner. Depending on the "Verdrecktheit" of the reflector is in total less light on the front, as for example with an LED (but all forwards) radiates maybe only 400 lumens.
Very strong this effect with LED replacement bulbs for fluorescent tubes. The (normal) tubes radiate in all directions, LEDs (for example) only downward. Where needed, an LED with a lower number of lumens can be quite sufficient.

Important: There are several series of Osram. HA (Advanced) HB (Basic) and HV (this one). If I understand correctly the datasheet, they differ in the amount of light and the angle range in which radiated (at 180 °, the lamp would emit only down). "HA" in this design provides 2200 lumens (at 130 ° viewing angle), "HB" 1900 lumens (at 160 ° beam angle) and this "HV" variant 1500 Lumens (at 150 °).

Light color "I do not want so cold"
Is specified in "K" (Kelvin). Depending nieriger the number, the warmer. 2700K I find very pleasant. 4000K 6000K as borderline and very cold. Unfortunately, "working" the "pleasantness" light color something "against" efficiency. Say, who wants warm light has a small little to do without brightness. Why are many "super bright" LEDs (also flashlights) rather cold in color.

There was one more thing: light quality.
The effect is known: In business, the clothes look different than on the street. Then, lamps have been used with a poor CRI and color rendering index. Everything below 80% (100% = sunlight) should be avoided in living rooms.

Bonus: Read label of fluorescent lamps.
Often we read a three-digit number on the tubes (also compact energy-saving lamps). for example "827" = That is, color rendering index 80% (the "8"), and color temperature 2700K (the "27"). This lamp is good, a 927 would be the greatest feeling. And now it also becomes clear what to make of a hardware store "460" (color rendering 40% 6000K - which one depends Gerde times in the basement).

Dimming
If it is not needed, you should give it up. It requires compromises that make worse rather doubt the lamp.

--- End --- withdrawable

Tip: General information on life. I had breakfast defaulters in several manufacturers (even for large). That's why I like to order the Lamperl here online, so I can verify the purchase date if necessary and shall keep any evidence. Also I write the date and the retailer on the version. You do not believe, as one that rankles when the expensive LED gives up her mind after 1000h.

Why they ever go broke?
Contrary to popular belief, the LEDs burn itself rather hardly or wear out. Anyway, if they are well treated. As a rule, dismantled the electronic control unit and leads to catastrophic failure (until the death of the LED). Currently it is believed that the life hours specified primarily relate to the ballast (in particular, the capacitors are in continuous suspicion here exert lifetime limit).